Monday, April 2, 2012

Ghana Day 19 - 033112 - The Jews of Sefwi Wiawso

Day 19 033112 The Ghana Jews of Sefwi Wiawso

Arriving in Sefwi Wiawso

We originally planned a two week trip with our volunteer program, but we learned of something unique that caused us to extend our trip to enjoy an additional weekend Sabbath with a secluded Jewish community, located in the Western region, about a 12 hour ride from Accra where we are based. Through one of those beyond-coincidence exchanges with a friend in London, she told us of a small Jewish community, deep inland in Ghana, that was practicing Judaism. We found them on Facebook, and we were invited to stay at the home of their worship leader.

Here is their story. Our host, Joseph Armah, told us of two people in the area, about 40 years ago in 1972, who began questioning the prevailing idea of celebrating the Sabbath on a day other than Saturday, the seventh day of rest, as recounted in the story of Creation in Genesis. Guided by a personal vision of being a part of the lost tribes of Israel, they began re-establishing their identity as seventh day Shabbat worshipers, and also renouncing the idea of Jesus as the Messiah.

Now, there are two majority religions in Ghana, Christians and Moslems, although Ghana's public policy defends the rights of people to have freedom of worship. Jews are just underrepresented here, close to 0%. Every store front, taxi, bus and placard seems to have a religious, mostly Christian, spin to it. Challenging the fundamental premise of the majority religion was not going to be an easy task.

These two free thinking, new-Jews began refining and defining their identity as seventh-day Shabbat worshipers as well as non believers of Jesus as the Messiah. Through the village chief, they were given a public forum to express their ideas, (an earlier day version of public access TV) and very slowly, began to attract followers, one person at a time. After several years of doing this, keeping a low profile, but gaining momentum, there was a Christian attack on several lead members of this new movement. Through the judicial system, their right to practice freely, without fear, was affirmed.Presently they have about 60 active members, and their own synagogue building picture to the right.  They are also completing a guest house for visitors.

Walking forward with more certainty and confidence, but still treading lightly around their easily provoked neighbors, the Jewish group in Ghana grew, drawing members from a half dozen local towns and villages. They met and aligned with several benefactors in the US who supported them and helped them make connections with American and Israeli Jews. Recently, they have also also aligned with the vision of the Uganda Jews, who had established a vision for how African Jewry might play out.

During the past few years, supported by the efforts of Kulanu, this growing community began exporting beautiful handmade kippot (scullcaps) and Kente cloth tallesim (prayer shawls) to raise money for this community.

Last year the community received a donation of siddurim (prayer books) from a Conservative American synagogue (Sim Shalom, which sadly, had little Hebrew transliteration for these non-Hebrew readers). They have a continued influx of visitors from around the world. Last month, a French author stayed here, completing her research on African Jewish communities for her new book.

We were hosted in the home of the community leader, and graciously received. We had a Shabbat meal on Friday night, and at sunset, as Shabbat began, saying familiar prayers over the candles, wine and bread, as is done by Jews throughout the world. (The modification was that we used a bottle CocaCola instead of wine.)

On Shabbat morning, we walked down the road to their synagogue building, which is simple but beautiful, with 10 wooden pews, a wooden bimah (pulpit) and a small Sefer Torah (Torah scroll containing the Five Books of Moses handwritten on parchment in Hebrew). We used the donated prayer books and began the worship with a song proclaiming the Oneness of God in their native language of Sefwi. For our benefit, some English translation was included. We progressed through the morning service, largely reading in English, but reciting the Shema (central prayer affirming the oneness of God) and V'Ahavta in transliterated Hebrew. Men and women sat on separate side of the sanctuary, a tradition that I associate with more observant communities back home. I offered to read the Amidah (central community prayers) and to chant from the Torah scroll, which was accepted. I also had the opportunity to lead the closing Mourner's prayer in Hebrew, and later to teach one of my prayer based songs that invited everyone's participation.

The Torah was taken out (from a storage room on the side of the building) and was carried around for all members of the community to touch. The parasha (weekly reading from the Torah, synchronized with Jews around the world) was read and discussed in English, followed by a second translation into Sefwi, with a further discussion of the key ideas presented.

The service was delightful, and filled with participation, especially from the young children present who had recently received a series of Hebrew lessons from a visiting Israeli.

Our host indicated that they were exploring the original commandments from God in Torah, and slowly adapting their culture accordingly. From one who is familiar with the pretty well defined lines of observance between the various movement in American Jewry, their practices seemed a bit eclectic, but each ritual was embraced with a strong sense of purpose. As I mentioned earlier, some seem on the extreme side of observance (women are not permitted to worship during their menstrual cycle) while the worship service included only a taste of Hebrew (more reminiscent of Liberal/Reform observance).  No doubt it will evolve as new meaning is extracted from the original text of the Torah, and as visitors bring ideas from distant places of observances that have meaning.

Their spiritual leader is away this month, in Uganda, studying Hebrew to bring back to the community. They have identified this as a weak spot, as few have Hebrew reading or comprehension skills to pray in the sacred tongue. The Hebrew that they use has been taught by transliterating it into English phonetically.

This community is passionate about their central theme of observing Shabbat (Sabbath) on Saturday. I expect that they will continue to grow strong confidently and to open doors of communication with their Christian neighbors who are curious what the fuss is, attracting international guests to this small community in Sefwi Wiawso.

We brought five pounds of Passover matzah (unleavened bread) from the US to them, as well as several bottles of kosher wine for celebrating the Passover holiday next week. I left them recordings of some of my music, taught some familiar melodies, and recorded some of their music in their original Sefwi language. During Shabbat, we opened new doors of understanding between Jews in opposite parts of the world. And I gained respect for a new Jewish community that is finding its roots and defining its observance.

All in all, a beautiful Shabbat filled with dialog, prayer and most important, peace and rest. A most wonderful day.


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